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CH CombatStick Replacement parts?


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I haven't purchased from digikey but the ones you bought look right, they have the longer shaft compared to 632. 

I recently replaced the pot in my prothrottle. It was pretty darn easy and I'm sure I did the fighterstick quite a while ago.

Nothing complicated about it, you'll be done in no time, just take note when pulling things apart.

Edited by WWFawlty
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The pots are very easy to replace. If you are having a problem with the control being a little jittery, that can most of the time

be corrected by tightening the wire clips that attach to the post on the pots by gently squeezing them together for a tighter fit. Also, you

can bypass the clips and just solder the wire clips directly to insure no loose connection. I am in the process of installing a hall

sensor pot into my CH Pro Throttle. I have not received the pot yet from the fellow who makes them but it looks like fun and cost is 

very reasonable.    CH Throttle upgrade to hall sensor

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I just emailed Norman Yeung in regards to the hall sensor replacement kits and found that he does now have hall sensor replacements 

for the CH Fighter Stick. This would be a great way to replace and even upgrade your fighterstick pots to non-contact hall sensors.  The cost 

is $27.00 for the three pots for roll, pitch and throttle . This again would be a great way to not only repair but upgrade your joysticks.  He did say in

the email that they are basically plug and play but some basic soldering skills would be required and he would be more than happy to help and answer

any questions in regards to the installation.  His email address is ntydkhe@yahoo.com

Here is a picture of the pots for the fighter stick


Hall sensor pots.PNG

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I took this rudimentary explanation from another forum...


”A potentiometer is an adjustable resistor which consists of a wiper that slides across a restrictive strip to deliver an increase or decrease in resistance.  Since there is a physical scraping it is subject to wear and accumulation of dirt between the wiper and restrictive strip causing problems.

Hall effect sensors use a non-contact magnetic field for position indication eliminating the scraping, wear and dirt problem.”

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11 hours ago, WWGeezer said:

Robby, what is the benefit of this different type of pot?  Does it work differently?

Hey Geezer,

I think Chunk did a great job with the posted explanation above. My understanding is exactly what Chunk posted plus it is said that they are a bit more precise than the regular pots.

For me as a fixer person, the hall sensor type may eliminate the need to have to repair this once in a while, and also I will be interested in how it functions compared to the old pots. 

This kit cost me $17.50 and I was really impressed with the creativity and ingenuity that Norman put into this, so for such a small amount of money thought it to be an interesting project 

while supporting his effort. I will say here that he does have a kit for the CH Control Yoke as well as for the Fighterstick/CombatStick.

If I were still using my Fighterstick, and it developed a little jittery behavior I believe I would replace all the old pots with the hall sensor pots. It is definitely a subjective journey ( no right or wrong )

whichever way you go. It is whatever you are comfortable with, for me , I love tinkering with new stuff ( especially if it is not too expensive ). I guess you can always replace the hall sensors with

the original pots if you are not happy with these, however I doubt that to be the case if you install them correctly.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

Here is an update to my journey in trying to upgrade my CH Pro Throttle pot with the above mentioned hall sensor from Norman Yeung. When I first installed it per directions, it did not work during or

after tryng to calibrate ( in Win 10 ). I contacted Norman in regards to this and he asked that I check to insure I have  + 4.75 volts to 5.0 volts going to my pots and he gave me directions to check this. 

I found that my throttle pot has 10 volts going to it which is very strange for it says on the chip board inside the throttle  5 volts. It has been this way forever ( I guess ) and works fine so I don't know

what to say , just my luck. Norman was very hands on and gave me a remedy to try by daisy chaining some leds on the wiring from the chip board to the pot to bring the voltage to the hall sensor down to 5

and then it should work. So, if the voltages on your stuff is within the 5 volts this hall sensor kit should work, if not it may not.  I am just keeping my regular old pot in since I had planned to upgrade to a 

new twin throttle soon.  Oh well I gave it a try and I can say I think the problem is isolated to my peculiar throttle voltage and that it is highly likely to work well for you all. Norman was really nice in trying to

help resolve the problem. 

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21 hours ago, WWPlague said:

Im curious now, that throttle is USB powered?

  Reveal hidden contents



Hey Plague,

Well it turns out I was checking the volts on the wrong multimeter setting. I am so use to checking my power supply or whatever on my regular ( simming pc  I built ), and when checking

this out I forgot that I am using my laptop on battery power and was using the AC selection. When using the DC selector all is fine, it reads 4.93 volts.  Good grief, I can't believe

I was doing that.   

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Oh well, glad you found that out. Maybe the seller of the Hall sensor mod would be able to help you now that you verified that you have 5v on the pot, and his hall sensor isnt working. Cool that he wants to work with you, just tell him now, you think you have a bad hall sensor, ( it never had 10v applied to it), and you need his help. Did he tell you you had to "center" the shaft on the hall sensor to get the proper results? I get no sound in this video, but I see him acting like the HS shaft needs to be "centered" be before you put it in. 


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Hey Plaque,

Yep, I have already sent Norman the news that I actually am within the proper voltage limits. I also asked him if there is a way I can check the HE sensor to insure it 

is working properly before reinstalling. He replied and gave me directions to check the ohms on the red  to black and yellow wires of the HE sensor.  The readings on mine were quite lower than what 

he said the readings should be. So, I suspect it was a bad sensor from the beginning however he says he checks each one before he sends them out so who knows. It was pretty cheap so not 

a big deal. In regards to the installation of the hall sensor with the throttle handle being center, yep, that is how to do this, it makes it a little easier.     

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Well, after emailing Norman about everything he said he was going to send me another HE sensor. So just for grins and giggles I carefully disassembled the HE sensor he sent and found that it appeared something was missing from the 

rotating arm  on the inside of the unit. I sent Norman pictures and he replied back and said, indeed there are two small magnets that go in these spaces and he had sent me a wrong sensor, he went on to explain about his 3D printer head was 

needing cleaning during this time and he must have switched the two somehow. He was very apologetic and is sending me a new unit. So, all is good.  This is just how my whole life has been, no simple journey,  but I sure do learn a lot !!! 🙄

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